At a Glance
- Duration: Three-day stay
- Home Base: Bergen, Norway (apartment near the city center)
- Top Day Trip: The self-guided hike up Mount Fløyen.
- Memorable Moment: The initial financial triumph of the tax-free wine score and the striking sight of the fairytale forest on Mount Fløyen.
- Overall Vibe: Dominated by nature, striking scale of mountains, cold but invigorating, and a perfect launchpad for our Norwegian cruise.
This Town is Special Because...
Our arrival in Bergen was a striking, welcome shift from the historic centers of Europe. Two things immediately grabbed our attention: the immense mountains surrounding us—the sheer scale of nature was striking and very welcome—and the huge "Bergen?" sign at the airport with a gigantic question mark behind it! A quick Google search found “The question mark represents a sense of open-mindedness and the infinite possibilities one finds when arriving in a new destination.” It certainly got us talking.
Bergen is dominated by the Seven Mountains of Bergen, with Mount Fløyen being the most accessible. This mountain range dictates the local culture and weather (it gets over 300 days of rain!). The city's heart is Bryggen, the historic wharf, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the former commercial hub for the Hanseatic League. Walking through its narrow, wooden alleyways, you are instantly transported back to the 14th century and get your first introduction to how deeply the troll legends influence the culture here.
Our Home Base: Bergen
We settled into our apartment without issue, though the journey had one casualty: my luggage handle decided to die right then and there, guaranteeing I’d spend the next two months wrestling a handle-less suitcase.
Before we even left the airport, however, we encountered a necessary aspect of Norwegian life: high alcohol taxes. Tom quickly checked the tax on wine—a whopping 25%! Thankfully, the airport offered a tax-free opportunity for everyone, even residents. With a massive selection, we each bought three bottles (the limit is four per person), securing our supply for our stay and the 12-day cruise to come. A well-executed financial triumph before the trip even officially began!
Our Bergen Experience: The Day-to-Day
Self-Guided Walk and Bryggen
We outlined a self-guided walking tour to ensure we saw different parts of the city. We took a cold, beautiful walk out to a lookout point at Nordnesparken, appreciating the solitude and the water framed by those massive mountains.
Our walk eventually led us to Bryggen. Walking through its narrow, wooden alleyways, you are instantly transported back to a time when stock fish and grain were the currency of the world. We eventually found ourselves resting in the courtyard of an old medieval hall, imagining what it was like to live in Norway so long ago. After soaking up the history, we made our way to Dr. Wiesener Gastro Pub, a spot I had read great things about and wanted to stop at for a well-deserved drink after our long walking tour. I immediately loved the vibe of the place and genuinely wish we would have had time to go back at least once more before leaving Bergen.
The Fairytale Hike Up Mount Fløyen
The main activity, the one thing we’ll remember most from these three days, was the hike up Mount Fløyen. Fløyen is the most accessible of the Seven Mountains of Bergen that frame the city, and this mountain range dominates the local climate. In addition to hiking, there is also the Fløibanen Funicular which offers a much less strenuous option for accessing the mountain top.
The morning was chilly, around 39 degrees Fahrenheit, so we waited until 11:00 AM for the sun to warm things up a bit. The hike took us a little over an hour, and once we reached the top, the beautiful blue sky was a massive bonus after our cloudy weeks of travel (Bergen gets over 300 days of rain, so we felt incredibly lucky).
The real magic, however, was in the ascent and descent. The forest cover—that dense, vibrant blanket of moss and lichen—made the woods look like a truly magical fairytale land. The moss forms a dense, spongy, vibrant green blanket that covers everything, and the lichen gives the trees a wispy, beard-like texture that makes them look ancient and ethereal. You can instantly understand where the legends of fairies and trolls come from; the landscape is practically vibrating with myth.
Culture and Our Travel Ritual
In the evening, we sought out culture, attending a screening of the film The Mastermind as part of the Bergen International Film Festival. While the movie itself didn't quite land with us, we loved the experience of being part of the festival. Before getting on the ship, we indulged in our new pre-trip ritual: prepping for the next part of our trip. So, we opened one of the wines we bought at the airport, settled in front of the TV, and using YouTube fortravel videos, we educated ourselves on fjords and Cyprus, building excitement for the next two legs of our journey.
Culinary Discoveries and Shared Triumphs
We managed to hit the full spectrum of Norwegian dining:
- Trekroneren (The Hotdog Stand): We did the staple tourist thing and stopped at the famous hotdog stand. We were drawn in by the perpetually long queue of students and tourists. We were not brave enough for the most popular reindeer dog. Tom got a chili spice dog, and I had the San Francisco garlic dog. It was a huge hot dog and fun to experience.
- Pinocchio (Michelin-Talent Lunch): Our last, most memorable meal was here. Run by a husband and wife team (he’s a Chicago chef with two Michelin stars), it’s housed in an old, authentic prison! We sat at the bar and enjoyed sophisticated small plates like beef cheek pita and Jamaican jerk fries with mango aioli. This was a culinary triumph before boarding the ship.
- Other Stops: We had a simple fish cake platter and fish soup at Søstrene Hagelin, a traditional cafeteria-style restaurant famous for fish cakes since 1929, and settled for pizza and beer on the evening we went to the film festival.
What We Loved (and Didn't)
We loved how special the experience was. The hike itself—going through the forest covered in green moss and foliage, with waterfalls and huge boulders—was truly magical. The cold air, the sweeping views over the peninsula, and the realization that this place is entirely about nature made it a truly special start to our Norwegian adventure. We left feeling energized, prepared, and ready to board the ship.
The only things we didn't love were the small, everyday hassles: the rain and cold putting a damper on outdoor exploration, the initial shock of the high prices of Norway, and having to wrestle a broken suitcase handle up and down the hills of Bergen to reach our apartment and get to the cruise port!
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