Munich: Glühwein, Krampus, and the Magic of the Marienplatz

At a Glance

• Duration: 5-night stay
• Home Base: Holiday Inn City Centre (A 15-minute walk to Marienplatz with an excellent lobby for working).
• Top Market: The Medieval Christmas Market at Wittelsbacherplatz for its atmosphere.
• Memorable Moments: Stumbling into the thrilling chaos of the Krampuslauf parade and arriving in Marienplatz for the first time and being awestruck by the sheer scale of the market against the magnificent neo-Gothic backdrop.
• Overall Vibe: Historically magnificent and vibrant. For us, Munich was all about the atmosphere—the energy of the crowds and the leisurely transition from one unique market to the next.

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This Town is Special Because...

Munich has been a highlight on our itinerary all year, and it delivered the quintessential European Christmas experience. The city's layout is centered around Marienplatz, and the Christkindlmarkt. Marienplatz has served as the heart of the city since it was founded in 1158. We were fascinated to learn that a golden figure of Mary atop the Mariensäule (Mary’s Column) marks the so-called "zero point," from which all kilometer indications for Munich’s street signs are calculated.

We were struck by the architectural magnificence of the huge, imposing buildings and the logical flow of the city. We quickly learned to look for the twin spires of the Frauenkirche and the New Town Hall clock tower as our NorthStar, allowing us to wander and explore freely knowing exactly how to find our way back to the center.

Our Home Base: Holiday Inn City Centre After an initial night at the Moxy at the airport*, we moved to the Holiday Inn City Centre.

• The Experience: The room was comfortable, and the lobby was a fantastic space for catching upon work.
• Hospitality: The staff were incredibly kind, even storing my medication in a special medical refrigerator and helping us print documents.
• Logistics: It was an easy 15-minute walk to Marienplatz, though we quickly learned that Munich in December requires serious bundling after the sun goes down!

*Pro-Tip: The Munich airport has a travel clinic where I was able to schedule my last Hep B vaccination before we headed into the city.

Our Munich Experience: The Market Deep Dive

We loved the diversity of the markets in Munich. Whether it was the animatronics at the family-focused Residenz or the international food focus at Tollwood, there is a market for every interest. For us, it wasn't just about the stalls; it was about the experience of traversing from one market to another through the festive crowds.

• Christkindlmarkt at Marienplatz: This is the original market, with documented roots dating back to 1310 when it was known as the "St. Nicholas Market". The market is framed by the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), a Neo-Gothic masterpiece built between 1867 and 1908. We were mesmerized by the Glockenspiel, the world-famous astronomical clock. Watching the figures reenact the 1568 royal wedding and the coopers' dance at noon was a highlight we made sure to capture on video.
• The Nativity Market: Located just steps away, this is the largest nativity market in Germany, a tradition that became independent as early as 1757. The styles ranged from traditional wood carvings to modern and even Moroccan-inspired designs, featuring every animal imaginable (including some very unexpected elephants!).
• The Medieval Market (Wittelsbacherplatz):This felt like stepping back in time. All drinks are served in period-correct clay goblets, and glühwein made in cauldrons, and the stalls featured not only meat on sticks but also spiral-cut potatoes. Our second visit enchanted us with a group of children in costume doing a traditional dance with a small set of musicians.
• Ice Skating at Stachus: Though we didn't lace up our skates, the open-air rink at Karlsplatz (Stachus) was an unexpected highlight. Between the upbeat Christmas music, the lights, and the people-watching, this was where we felt most "in the Christmas mood."

The Traveler’s Dilemma: Window Shopping the Markets

One of the few challenges we faced was the discipline required to simply admire the amazing wares without filling our bags. Because we aren't returning to the U.S. for a while and are constantly managing the weight and space in our suitcases, we’ve had to resist the urge to buy souvenirs or gifts. It was genuinely hard to walk away from the things we fell in love with—especially the unique additions for our nativity scene or those grand, glowing stars that would have looked spectacular by our pool back home. For now, we are sticking to "digital souvenirs" in the form of photos and videos to keep our luggage light and our memories full!

The Wine Scene: A History of the "Glow"

As wine enthusiasts, we paid close attention to the Glühwein scene and its deep roots in European history.

• The History: Glühwein dates back to the Roman Empire, where spiced and heated wine was used to combat the winter chill. Historically, recipes evolved from using honey and rare spices like saffron in the 15th century to the modern blend of cinnamon, cloves, and star anise we see today.
• The "Pfand" System: You pay around €5 for the year-specific mug; you can either keep it as a souvenir or return it to get your cash deposit back.
• Exploring the Tastes: We discovered we preferred the White Glühwein or the Feuerzangenbowle—a rum-soaked sugar punch lit on fire, dripping caramelized sugar into the wine.

Culinary Discoveries and Shared Triumphs

Munich’s culinary scene is a balance of traditional Bavarian fare and modern vibes.

Market Snacks: Beyond the Bratwurst

While everyone knows the bratwurst, Munich’s markets offer unique regional specialties that are a must-try:

• Apfelkücherl: Deep-fried Bavarian apple rings that are warm, sweet, and perfect for cold winter days.
• Schupfnudeln: Hearty, thick, hand-rolled potato noodles often pan-fried with sauerkraut or bacon bits.
• Kaiserschmarrn: Fluffy, shredded pancakes griddled and sprinkled with powdered sugar, typically served with plum compote.
• Gebrannte Mandeln: We loved the spiced sugar nuts found at various stalls—their cinnamon and sugar aroma is the signature scent of the Munich markets.

Dining, Wine and Song Highlights

• Beer Hall Experiences: We spent a great hour at Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom (a 131 year old Bavarian Inn) with a couple we met from Charlotte, NC. It was the perfect atmosphere to swap stories and discuss our dreams for retirement.
• Haxnbauer: We had a memorable dinner here specifically for their famous Pork Knuckle (Schweinshaxe). It’s an iconic spot right in the heart of the Altstadt, offering a slightly more upscale but still cozy Bavarian ambiance.
• Bar Central: This was our standout wine bar discovery. We absolutely loved the vibe here and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a cool, relaxed atmosphere to enjoy a glass of wine and a light meal like our rigatoni with sausage and mushrooms.
• Street Music Highlight: Munich is unique because it auditions its street musicians, ensuring a very high standard of performance. This explained the incredible musicians we saw, from the "piano man" to the 6-person ensemble that were amazing, to a saxophone-playing Santa near the Residenz. It truly sets Munich apart as a vibrant arts town compared to other markets we've visited.

Reflections on the Journey

Munich was a lesson in balance. For me, the city was about the energy—the fog making the architecture look moody and the excitement of the Krampuslauf (Krampus Run). This Alpine tradition features frightening figures in horned masks meant to ward off evil spirits. We stumbled on this parade and learned that Krampus is the opposite of St Nicholas. Where St Nicolas brings presents for the good children, Krampus punishes the bad. For Tom, the trip was a challenge of navigating these massive crowds while battling a persistent cold. We found peace in the quieter moments: wandering through an 18th-centurycemetery or sitting in a small grotto taking a break from the crowds.

Munich is a beautiful, kind, and architecturally stunning city. We’d love to return in the summer to see the parks in bloom, but for a winter escape, its festive energy is unmatched.

Next stop: Nuremberg!

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