Nuremberg: Gingerbread, Goldsmiths, and a Walk Through Time

At a Glance

• Duration: 4-night stay.
• Home Base: Holiday Inn the Niu  (A comfortable stay outside the old town, perfect for those who enjoy a 20-minute daily walk to explore).
• Memorable Moment: Being greeted and sent off like family with hugs and air kisses at La Locanda, our favorite local Italian neighborhood gem.
• Overall Vibe: Historically rich and deeply atmospheric. For us, Nuremberg felt like a curated experience focused on quality craftsmanship and poignant historical reflection.

This Town is Special Because...

Nuremberg is a city that chose to honor its past with remarkable dedication. After being almost entirely destroyed during WWII, the city decided to rebuild in its original style—with stone walls, timber houses, and cobble stone streets—creating a beautiful "walk back in time". It sits on the historic Spice Trade Route, a legacy you can still taste today in the city’s world-famous gingerbread and sausages. We also visited a commemorative wall painting of the Behaim Globe, the world’s oldest surviving globe, created in Nuremberg in 1492—the same year the Americas were discovered (which explains why the US, New Zeeland, and Australia are missing from the map!).

The Historic Lens: Triumphs, Trials and Tribulations

For us, the trip was defined by what we learned about Nuremberg’s place both in history, and in the 20th century, and we are so glad we took the time to not only immerse in the Christmas markets, but also to learn more about the history of this amazing city by taking the historic tour on our first full day in Nuremberg.

• The Protected Crafts: We were fascinated to learn that Nuremberg held its craftsmanship in such high regard that it functioned almost like a state secret. For example, master goldsmiths were strictly forbidden from leaving the city. This was a strategic move by the city to control the industry and prevent their unique skills and trade secrets from being shared with rival cities.
• The Spice Route Legacy: Nuremberg's success as a major trading city on the spice route is the reason for its culinary icons. The influx of exotic spices led to the creation of the city's famous gingerbread and distinct sausages, traditions that remain central to the Christmas markets today.
• Nuremberg Trials Memorial: Tom visited the Memorium Nuremberg Trials located at the Palace of Justice. He saw the actual Courtroom 600, the historic site where leaders of the Nazi regime were tried by an international tribunal between 1945 and 1946. The museum provides a deep dive into the crimes of the defendants and the birth of modern international criminal law.

• Reconstruction Secrets: A fascinating tip from our tour—look for holes in the middle of bricks on buildings like the castle or town hall. These holes indicate stones that were original to the pre-war structure since they had to put in dowels to lift the stones into place, while smooth bricks indicate modern reconstructions. Once you know this, it is possible to walk around and see just how much had to be reconstructed.
• Propaganda and Rallies: We learned about the city's role as a center for Nazi propaganda, chosen for its large fields and major rail connections that allowed thousands to attend massive rallies.

Our Nuremberg Experience:

The Market Deep Dive Nuremberg's Christkindlesmarkt is one of Germany's oldest, with written mentions dating back to 1628.

• Craft Over Commercialism: Unlike other markets that focus heavily on food and drink, Nuremberg is roughly80% crafts and goods. We wandered row by row, admiring handmade cards, soaps, and woodworking. The Nativity Market (Way of Crèches) was another highlight, featuring intricate local woodcarvings.
• The Kindermarkt: To reach the old town, we walked through the children's market, which felt like a "Christmas mood" hub with rides and festive music. We highly recommend the fried potato pancakes served with cranberry sauce!
• The Sister City Market: This was a standout for us. It features stalls from Nuremberg’s sister cities around the globe. We visited several times, eventually finding the best red wine Glühwein of our entire trip at the Italian stall.
• The Advent Calendar House: We joined our new friend Jayme (a Navy nurse we met on our tour) to watch the light show and ceremony at the world’s largest advent calendar house as the windows lit up for the countdown.

Culinary Discoveries and Shared Triumphs

• Standout Market Foods:
  • The 700-Year-Old Sausage Recipe: We visited Peter Löbel’s booth for the famous "Three in a Bun" sausages. While the specific 700-year-old recipe claim is part of local lore, Nuremberg bratwurst has been a protected, regulated delicacy since 1313. They were so good that we went back two days in a row!
  • Fried Mushrooms: which Tom felt were some of the best he had ever had and were served in a paper cone and topped with select sauces.
• La Locanda: This family-owned Italian restaurant was a standout. The owner treated us like family, and by our second visit, we were exchanging Christmas hugs and air kisses.
• 994 Ginza: For our final dinner, we visited a Cozy Japanese restaurant offering sushi, creative small plates & cocktails, where the sushi rolls were served in impressive wooden canoes. It was some of the best Asian food we’ve had in a long time, made even better by the fact we were seated in their winter garden vs. the main restaurant.

Reflections on the Journey:

When we reflect back on Nuremberg, what will stay with us most is the perfect balance between festive charm and historical depth. We will remember the memorable meals at La Locanda and the unique, handmade crafts that filled the market stalls. The beauty of the walled old town and the incredible effort put into its reconstruction gave the city a unique soul. We are so glad we took the time not just to enjoy the holiday lights, but to truly learn the history that shaped this resilient city.

Traveler’s Tip: Deciphering the Rails

German rail tickets are unique, so check them carefully! Our ticket from Nuremberg to France was confusing, listing an ICE train that didn't originate in Nuremberg. We realized we had to take a regional train to Stuttgart first to make the connection, a detail that saved us from a potential travel catastrophe.

Next Stop: Strasbourg, France