Fes: The Intellectual Heart and the "Gold-Plated" Snack

At a Glance

• Duration: 7 Nights (Mid-April 2026).
• Home Base: A mix of the modern Ville Nouveau and a traditional Riad in the Medina.
• Top Day Trip: The historical trifecta of Volubilis, Moulay Idriss, and Meknes.
• Memorable Moment: Sitting on the old fortification walls watching the men lay out lamb skins along the hills to dry them, while their donkeys strayed nearby.
• Overall Vibe: Historically immersive, yet underscored by the reality of navigating a city that felt slightly less welcoming than its neighbors.

This Town is Special Because...

Fes is a city that wears its history like a heavy, ornate cloak. As the site of the world’s oldest university, it has evolved into a massive intellectual hub with over 30 universities today. We chose Fes to immerse ourselves in a more traditional side of Morocco, seeking to compare its legendary Medina to the motor-driven chaos of Marrakech. While Fes feels more "authentic" and less influenced by the French cosmopolitanism of the south, it also presented us with some of our most challenging "seasoned traveler" moments.

Our Home Base: A Tale of Two Fes’s

Our stay was split between the wide boulevards of the Ville Nouveau and the deep interior of the Medina. In the modern town, we enjoyed sunny apartments and easier access to parks, though we learned the hard way that "luxury" labels in Fes can often translate to a basic two-star experience in reality.

Moving into a Riad in the Medina was a different exercise in atmospheric auditing. Our Riad was tucked less than 50 yards from one of the few gates accessible by taxi, a vital detail given that vehicles are forbidden within the ancient walls. While the Riad provided the quintessential experience of windowless rooms and communal breakfasts, the lack of sunlight and the constant noise reminded us why we typically prefer the "hub and spoke" model in more modern neighborhoods.

Our Fes Experience: The Day-to-Day

When you're here you absolutely need to...

• Walk the Hijrian Forest: This paved walkway climbs a hill overlooking the Medina and is a favorite for local runners. It offers a rare, quiet perspective on the city—just keep an eye out for the local wild dogs if you venture off the main path.
• Visit the Woodworking Museum: Located within the Medina; for a mere 20 dirham, this three-story museum provides a beautiful look at the artistry of Moroccan cedar and citrus woods, and the different rooms showcase the artistry of doors, furniture, religious items and tools.
• Explore the Tanneries (Quietly):While the largest tannery is a tourist magnet, we found the two smaller ones in the city to be far more educational. We spent time chatting with a leather shop owner about the differences between camel, goat, and lamb skins—an interaction that taught us a lot about not only the types and processes, but where to find the best deals (not at the shops by the tanners!).
• Hike the Fortification Walls: Walking along the old walls outside the Medina allows you to see the city from a bird's-eye view. You’ll stumble upon goatherds living in the ancient caves and witness the tanners laying out thousands of sheepskins to dry in the sun.

A Taste of the City

Our culinary highlights in Fes were found primarily in the Ville Nouveau. Namoi was a standout for its Asian influence; the "dragon steak"—a marinated beef so tender it practically melted—will likely be a contender for our annual travel awards. For a more local vibe in the Medina, Culture Box became a regular haunt for us. Their pizzas and chicken shawarma plates were consistently good and light on the wallet. On our day trip to Meknes, we had a beautiful lunch at Collier de la Colombe. We sat on a sunny patio and paired a lamb tagine and traditional Harira soup (which is served with an egg, bread and small cookie for a full meal) with a refreshing bottle of local grey wine from Eclipse.

Day Trips: Escapes from the Hub

Volubilis, Moulay Idriss, and Meknes

This day trip is a mandatory pilgrimage for any history enthusiast.

• Volubilis: These Roman ruins are incredibly well-preserved. We opted to skip the guides at the gate and instead wandered the Decumanus Maximus, imagining the bustling shops and baths of the ancient city

• Moulay Idriss: Known as a spiritual center, this holy city is built across two steep hills- the views from the "High Terrace" looking back at Volubilis were spectacular. We learned a lot from our guide including the two door knockers that would indicate if someone was wanting a male or female of the household, and the subsequent smaller door that would hide the woman’s face

• Meknes: The massive scale of the Bab El Mansourgate—built with columns taken from Volubilis—was great to see. We also liked the Medina here and bought a unique harissa paste that Tom loved

Culinary Discoveries: The Wine Scene

Fes is located adjacent to Morocco’s primary wine region, yet the city itself feels surprisingly detached from its neighbor. As part of our goal to capture the wine scene of the places we visit, we were eager to explore but found that independent wine shops are virtually non-existent here. Most of our wine "quests" ended at the Carrefour Market cave, which carries a solid selection of Moroccan and French labels.

Our dedicated winery tour near Meknes proved to be a lesson in "Resilient Realism." Despite being marketed as a three-winery visit, it was actually a single-wineryexperience. Our guide tried to add an impromptu visit to Château Roslane, considered a top-tier winery, but were disappointed to find that they only serve wine to hotel guests or those sitting for a full lunch—not for a standard tasting.

However, we did enjoy the main experience, which was a tour and tasting at Villa Volubilia. Co-owned and run by two French families: The Gribelin Family, originally from Bordeaux. The estate is currently managed by Christophe Gribelin. And The Gervoson Family, who also own Château deBeaupré in Provence. We did a tour and learned about winemaking andolive oil making from their 90-hectare estate of vineyards and 15 hectares of olive trees. The tour was followed by a leisurely time in the garden with goat cheese, bread and olive oil along with the four wines for tasting. They have a unique way of doing tastings where they bring you the bottle, pour a bit while explaining the winemaking characteristics and aging details. They leave the bottle and you drink as much of it as you want, making it a fun, leisurely affair in a beautiful setting.

Reflections on the Journey

• The things we loved the most: The lush Jnan Sbil garden, which we visited to walk or read multiple times, and the day trips.
• The things we didn’t: The aggressive nature of the local teenagers and children, who were significantly more persistent than those in Marrakech or Tangier. Being threatened with being spit-on by middle-schoolers for money while trying to work on our travel awards while sitting on a bench in the Hijrian Forest was a low point.
• What we learned: Fes is a cash-heavy culture. Even if you book through major sites, expect to pay taxes, riad fees, and most restaurant bills in physical dirham.
• What we would skip: Staying in a Riad in the Medina. We found we really liked visiting the Medina, but not residing there.

Links:

More Trip Reports | Marrakech Trip Report | Tangier Trip Report